Simple noise free stabilized power supply 230V in ~ to 12V / 125mAdc out.
A perfect companion for the miniwhip active DX antenna.
A double sided PCB is available.
pa0nhc.nl 20171019.

This simple little power supply is designed for use with noise-critical instruments, like a Miniwhip active antenna. It is a well filtered linear circuit, contains no switching circuit, therefore does not generate any HF-noises. 

It can be left switched-on, day and night, and then prevents condensation in a small outdoor instrument, like the Miniwhip antenna.

Although a double sided PCB will be available, and a bottom copper mask for a DIY pcb is given, a printed circuit board is not strictly needed. See below.

Specified transformer Tr1 and stabilizer MC7812 are both short-circuit-proof. A fuse is therefore omitted. The rectifier is bypassed with four capacitors to prevent rattling noises and cross modulation caused by possible penetrating RF signals. Penetration is prevented with High-Ui (5000) ring cores F1 and F2, which block RF signals on both input and output cables. You should wind as much as possible turns THIN twin cable through the holes of F1 and F2.

The PCB is designed for two horizontal PCB connectors for AC mains voltage and 12Vdc output, and its installation into a Hammnond 1254JGY ABS box.

Schematic with Conrad order Numbers.
Both cables should be wound several times through cores F1 and F2.
Download the schematic HERE
Download the parts list HERE.
Download the single sided DIY bottom copper mask HERE.

Double sided factory made PCB including mains- and 12V connectors.
It fits into a Hammond 1554JGY ABS box.
DIN connector pins 1,4 are "-12V",  pins 3 and 5 are "+12V". Pin2 is Not Connected.

F1 : thin mains cord four times through the hole. 
F2 : Thin insulated wire pair seven times through the hole.
At F2 : "Minus" is bottom-left and top-right.

    Simple construction.
The C7 Euro connector mains cable is connected to a C8p PCB connector on the PCB.
The 5 pole DIN PCB bus delivers the 12V output to a 5 pole DIN audio plug on the output cable (1-2 = minus, 4-5 = plus).

The four fully plastic bushes at the mid of each side must be removed (do NOT remove the metal filled bushes at the corners) :
- Use a 9mm drill in a table drill stand
- Drill de round parts down until flat with the bottom
- Break the remaining plastic flanges away using pliers.

As currents are small. You therefore should use thin twin cable to wind the ferrite chockes F1 and F2, with much turns as possible through the hole for optimal choking effect.

Remember : three times through the hole of a ring core is nine times more effective than one time through the hole of a ring core.

Drill a few 10mm holes into each long side of the box to allow some airflow cooling.

In the short sides each a hole must be drilled, to enable ACmains and DCout plugs to be connected.

If no PCB is to be used.

The whole must than be hand wired. You could glue the transformer, the bridge rectifier Br1 and the elco C5 upside down , together with the wounded ferrite rings, onto the bottom of the box. Use thermal glue or quick hardening two component glue.

Screw IC1 to a long side of the box, with 10cm2 aluminum strip for cooling clamped between them.

All connections can be made using thin insulated wire. 

All ceramic capacitors should be soldered directly onto the pins of Br1 and IC1 with the shortest wires possible.

IMPORTANT : because a low-Z common "minus surface", like on the PCB, is not present, you have to wire the following connections to a common ground point, the minus of IC1, ( which is its middle leg), or the cooling surface of IC1 as follows :

a. Connect the minus of elco C5 only to the minus leg of the MC7812.
b. Connect the minus of rectifier Br1 only to the minus leg of the MC7812.
a. Connect the minus of output core F2 only to the minus leg of the MC7812.

Please do use C6 with the stated value 330nF, for stability reasons of IC1.